Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Matt' s new footy

Bobs 4/11/11 from Matthew Barker on Vimeo. Matt and I were frothing Sunday night. Thinking it was going to be banging all day. We arrived before dark. Straight to the pier. Bummed the surf was so shitty. We sat around for an hour or so. Nothing. We decided to go ahead and get in chaotic bullshit. Two drifts. One on the outside. Big rollers with no end section. LAME. Inside a little faster but closing out. Grey clouds all morning. Matt and I decided to do Luds and acid under the pier while the cops sported banana hammocks with swastika tank tops. Clouds blew off and the sun was on it. So was the wind. There was this intense glare coming from the sun against the water. Blinding! At the same time , Matt and I saw someone drop in from way outside,I think it was Chris Stolley, well over head. He disappeared between swells. Then the guy reappeared inside the T and got a tube. This was the day after the luds acid and sun.

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